$45 for a PTT switch? Not when I have a 3D printer!

$45 for a PTT switch? Not when I have a 3D printer!

May 11, 2026 0 By W7MVG

I recently bought a headset (Koss SB-45 on Amazon*) to use with my Xiegu G90 radio, and the Heil AD-1ICM adapter to hook it to the radio. But still needed a PTT switch to make it work. I was looking at the Heil one and to me it just looked super clunky. And for $45! Can’t be more than a couple bucks in parts. So I set out to make my own. Let’s get started…

I had to buy just a couple things…

Qty NeededPart NamePrice
1Normally off, momentary SPST switch (pack of 2)*$8.99
11/4″ Mono Audio plug (pack of 2)*$5.79

And I had some of it on hand…

And finally a couple tools…

  • Weller WES-51 solder station
  • Wire stripper/crimper

Not too bad of a list, so I set about to design a case that would fit the PTT switch, the wire with spade connectors, and would fit comfortably in my hand. After a few variations and test prints I settled on this version.

A screen capture of Fusion 360 software showing a 3d model of a PTT switch case

It fits comfortably in my hand, and works with the switch and M3 screws I already had on hand. The STL files are available for download on Thingiverse.

Once that was printed, the next step was to assemble the cable. I cut about 3 feet of 18 gauge red/black parallel wire, since it’s what I had handy. Really you could use just about anything here. There’s very little current being passed on the wire so the gauge shouldn’t matter too much. I used silicon insulated wire because I like it’s flexibility. But it does have a little bit of a drawback in this application that I’ll get to a little be later. First was to solder the wire onto the 1/4″ plug. Nothing special there.


A close up of wires soldered to a 1/4" mono audio plug

On the other end of the cable I needed to solder 2 female spade connectors, to go onto the rocker switch. But the spade connectors I had were a little long.

A picture of two gold-colored female spade connectors.

So I flattened and removed the bottom set of crimp connectors to shorten them up some. They were getting soldered anyway so the crimp flaps were not needed.

A picture of two gold-colored female spade connectors, modified with the last set of crimp connectors removed.

With those soldered on, the cable was finished.

A picture of a coiled length of red & black wiring cable with two gold-colored female spade connectors on one end, and a 1/4" mono audio plug on the other.

Next was assembly. But even with the spade connectors shortened, it didn’t leave a lot of room in the case, and put a pretty sharp angle on the wires coming out of the switch. So I bent the switch terminals down a bit. That alleviated the sharp bend on the wires and made it all fit in the case.

A picture of a SPST rocker switch with the terminals bent down at a 45 degree angle.

A picture of one half of a 3d printed PTT switch case with the switch and wires laid in place as a mock-up.

The only thing left was final assembly. The STL design does include M3 – 0.5 pitch screw threads in the design but they didn’t come out so great on my printer, so I did run a tap in there to make it a bit better. Final assembly is simple, lay the wire so it runs from the bottom hole, up past the screw posts, and out the front with just enough slack to attach the rocker switch. Screw the two halves together and pull the excess wire out the bottom while pushing the rocker switch into place until it clicks.

And image of a finished, 3d printed PTT switch showing a black and grey casing, with a black rocker switch and red and black wires protruding from the bottom and ending in a 1/4" mono audio plug

I ran out of grey filament while printing the final version and switched to black. Hence the 2-tone design. I think it looks good that way. What about you?

The only issue I have is that the silicone insulated wire doesn’t tie into a knot very easily. I was planning on putting a knot in it at the bottom of the case for strain relief, but I can’t get a small enough knot to fit in the case. So when I get around to it, I’m going to use a little bit of my wife’s hot glue to hold it in place at the bottom just to help with any strain I might put on it.

Now you might be asking what was the final cost? Well if we don’t count anything I already had on hand, then the cost was only the rocker switch and audio plug.

PartQuantity boughtPrice as packagedPrice each
Rocker switch2$8.99$4.50
1/4″ Audio plug2$5.79$2.90
total$7.40

So the purchased price was just $7.40. Even if we add in the cost of filament and electricity (as reported by the slicer) which was $0.83 the whole thing comes to $8.23. That’s a whole lot better than $45 in my eyes! Plus it was a fun challenge and I would much rather build things than buy them.

Thanks for reading! If you have any comments or suggestions, please email me, or leave them in the comments below.

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